Emerging from the Dust, March 31


Just got to Tamale, in the upper region of Ghana, after traveling in the dust for 2 days. The trip in the travel guide was not recommended for the faint of heart and I understand why! Yesterday, it took me 14 hours and 3 different rides to cover 300 miles. The first ride was a typical 30 passenger trotro packed to the gills. I had my pack on my lap and got terribly cramped during the journey. It rained for a while and water was gushing down my side as my window was missing. The second ride was a rasta pickup modified for passenger (or sheep!) transport. 15 people got in the back and I sat in the front along with two other passengers and the driver. The shifting was taking place between my legs! The gas tank consisted of a 2 gallon plastic jug sitting on the passenger floor with a hose coming from the engine. We had to stop every 2 miles to put more water in the radiator as it kept overheating and the radiator had no cap. The third ride was a Peugeot 504 from 1978 and we squeezed 9 people in a car no bigger than a Honda Accord. The tires were completely bare and the engine was running so rough that the car stalled at least a dozen time. It took 2 hours to cover the last 16 miles and I got to Bimbilla at night. A young boy led me to a guest house where I got a room for $6. I happy to take a shower and wash my pack that was completely caked from traveling on the roof during one ride!
The previous days were spent in the upper Volta Region in some marvelously luscious jungle, swimming in waterfalls and taking long hikes in the steamy forest, surrounded by butterflies, cacao trees, plumerias and mango trees (not ripe yet!). (see slideshow)
My camera LCD screen broke so it will be hard to take photos from now on...
I am reajusting my plans as the traveling is exhausting. I may visit Mole National Park to see some wild elephants and head to the Gold Coast after that. I am well otherwise, appreciating all that I have after traveling some very poor areas in the North.

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